Kyoto's Yamada Seiyu hand-roasts black sesame, then stone-grinds it twice. 100% roasted black sesame. Nothing else.
Yamada Seiyu has been making sesame products in Kyoto since 1934. This is their black sesame paste, known in Japan as neri goma, ground from nothing but roasted black sesame.
The seeds are roasted by a craftsman, who adjusts the roast to the condition of the sesame and to the weather and humidity of the day.
They then go through a stone mill twice, a first pass and a finishing pass. The mill turns slowly, limiting heat buildup during grinding and helping preserve the sesame's aroma.
What comes out is black sesame and nothing else. No added oil, sugar, salt or stabilizer. The flavor is deep and full, with the natural sweetness of roasted sesame.
The paste is made at the company's main factory in Katsura, Kyoto.
Ayako visited both of the company's sites. At the Goma factory in Nantan, Kyoto Prefecture, she watched a craftsman roast sesame in an iron pan, moving the seeds with a hand broom. She saw the roasted seeds checked by color and aroma and pinched between the fingers to test their softness. At the main factory in Katsura, where this paste is made, she saw the stone mills at work. The company's president calls himself henko, Kyoto dialect for a stubborn, particular person, and Ayako says the work she watched explains the name.