Roasted white sesame, stone-ground twice in Kyoto by Yamada Seiyu. Silky, sweet neri goma for goma-dare, goma-dofu and dressings. Nothing added.
Neri goma is Japan’s roasted sesame paste, and this is Yamada Seiyu’s white version, sold in Japan as Goma Neri Neri. The only ingredient is roasted white sesame. The paste is creamy and aromatic, with a natural sweetness that works in savory and sweet dishes alike.
Yamada Seiyu has been making sesame products in Kyoto since 1934. The sesame is specially blended for neri goma, and craftsmen roast it by hand, adjusting the roast to the condition of the seeds, the season and the weather. It is then ground twice in granite stone mills: a first grind, then a finishing grind. The stones turn slowly to keep friction heat down.
The paste is made at the company’s main factory in Katsura, Kyoto.
Ayako visited both of the company’s sites. At the Goma factory in Nantan, Kyoto Prefecture, she watched a craftsman roast sesame in an iron pan, moving the seeds with a hand broom. She saw the roasted seeds checked by color and aroma and pinched between the fingers to test their softness. At the main factory in Katsura, where this paste is made, she saw the stone mills at work. The company’s president calls himself henko, Kyoto dialect for a stubborn, particular person, and Ayako says the work she watched explains the name.
It comes in a stand-up pouch you squeeze, so no spoon is needed.